Full Version: better traction
From a complete stop my 95 formula 5.7, get on it and it will just sit there and spin and burn rubber for the longest time before it finally gets going. Forget about it if the road is a little wet it will do a 180, once you get moving it handles great. Stock suspension motor has some moditfcations street car any suggestions ?
Better tires
my Goodyear GS were really bad
I had Kumho Estca Supras and they did real well even in the wet
Got Goodyear Eagle F1 GD-D3's pretty good too
my Goodyear GS were really bad
I had Kumho Estca Supras and they did real well even in the wet
Got Goodyear Eagle F1 GD-D3's pretty good too
Dont mash the pedal so hard!
Make sure the tires are not over inflated to.
Make sure the tires are not over inflated to.
I forget if you've listed them before but what mods does the engine have?
But I'd upgrade the suspension from the stock stuff you've got now and also get better tires. I'm running Hankooks on both my 4th gens (16s and 17s).
Another thing like Tyler said, don't mash the pedal at first, on the street give her gas easy at first til you're rolling a hair then give her the gas. Also make sure your tires are properly inflated, overinflated or even underinflated tires can cause issues when using street tires.
But the best thing to do is to learn your car and how she handles at "take off" from a stop since some of our cars will grip right from the get go while other you need to roll out a bit before they'll get a bite on the pavement and hook up. Once you figure that out, whether on street tires or on drag radials, you'll be good to go.
Oh and another thing, when you're at a light, don't get the rpms on her up too much before you let go of the brake pedal since that can cause an issue too.
But I'd upgrade the suspension from the stock stuff you've got now and also get better tires. I'm running Hankooks on both my 4th gens (16s and 17s).
Another thing like Tyler said, don't mash the pedal at first, on the street give her gas easy at first til you're rolling a hair then give her the gas. Also make sure your tires are properly inflated, overinflated or even underinflated tires can cause issues when using street tires.
But the best thing to do is to learn your car and how she handles at "take off" from a stop since some of our cars will grip right from the get go while other you need to roll out a bit before they'll get a bite on the pavement and hook up. Once you figure that out, whether on street tires or on drag radials, you'll be good to go.
Oh and another thing, when you're at a light, don't get the rpms on her up too much before you let go of the brake pedal since that can cause an issue too.
Me - I enjoy burnnim off!
QUOTE(SassySue09 @ Dec 24 2007, 02:21 PM) 
I forget if you've listed them before but what mods does the engine have?
But I'd upgrade the suspension from the stock stuff you've got now and also get better tires. I'm running Hankooks on both my 4th gens (16s and 17s).
Another thing like Tyler said, don't mash the pedal at first, on the street give her gas easy at first til you're rolling a hair then give her the gas. Also make sure your tires are properly inflated, overinflated or even underinflated tires can cause issues when using street tires.
But the best thing to do is to learn your car and how she handles at "take off" from a stop since some of our cars will grip right from the get go while other you need to roll out a bit before they'll get a bite on the pavement and hook up. Once you figure that out, whether on street tires or on drag radials, you'll be good to go.
Oh and another thing, when you're at a light, don't get the rpms on her up too much before you let go of the brake pedal since that can cause an issue too.
But I'd upgrade the suspension from the stock stuff you've got now and also get better tires. I'm running Hankooks on both my 4th gens (16s and 17s).
Another thing like Tyler said, don't mash the pedal at first, on the street give her gas easy at first til you're rolling a hair then give her the gas. Also make sure your tires are properly inflated, overinflated or even underinflated tires can cause issues when using street tires.
But the best thing to do is to learn your car and how she handles at "take off" from a stop since some of our cars will grip right from the get go while other you need to roll out a bit before they'll get a bite on the pavement and hook up. Once you figure that out, whether on street tires or on drag radials, you'll be good to go.
Oh and another thing, when you're at a light, don't get the rpms on her up too much before you let go of the brake pedal since that can cause an issue too.
She's got a hypertech power prorammer, cold air intake system, .52 mm throttle body, high rise manifold and a flowmaster muffler for now.
High rise manifold? Can you expand on that?
Yea how do have one of those on your car? I've only seen those on cars with carbs on them. 
It is made by edelbrock, I bought it a Murray's speed and custom when I went in there to get the bigger throttle body, the salesperson showed me it and call it a high rise it is only about a 1/4" higher, but the airflow chamber sits up and off the hot engine block about a 1-1/2", you have to mill the ports on the stock heads larger to match the ports on the manifold so it dosen't mess up the air flow it cost $427.00 the edelbrock part# EDE7107. If you need any more information glad to help, I think it's only for the LT1
What tires are you running? What trans - auto or manual? What rear axle ratio? If its an auto, do you have a stock stall or a high stall converter?
Without that info, its hard for people to help you. I checked your Tech Tray, and your profile, and there is no info at all, other than its a 95.
Edelbrock makes replicas of the LT1 and LT4 intake manifolds. They are virtually identical to stock, except for 1/4" LONGER (not taller) intake runners. They feature the "air gap" that is supposed to reduce the preheat in the incoming air charge. It has been speculated that creating the "air gap" actually reduced the plenum volume, on a manifold that is already too tight on volume. Tests so far have shown no significant difference between the Edelbrock parts and the stock parts. The main advantage of the Edelbrock LT4 manifold is that they actually make them, while GM has stopped producing the OEM LT4 manifold.
The Edelbrock LT4 intake has the 1/4" TALLER ports, but it will not work with the stock LT1 heads, because of an interference between the valve cover rail on the LT1 heads, and the taller runner castings on the LT4 intake.
Without that info, its hard for people to help you. I checked your Tech Tray, and your profile, and there is no info at all, other than its a 95.
Edelbrock makes replicas of the LT1 and LT4 intake manifolds. They are virtually identical to stock, except for 1/4" LONGER (not taller) intake runners. They feature the "air gap" that is supposed to reduce the preheat in the incoming air charge. It has been speculated that creating the "air gap" actually reduced the plenum volume, on a manifold that is already too tight on volume. Tests so far have shown no significant difference between the Edelbrock parts and the stock parts. The main advantage of the Edelbrock LT4 manifold is that they actually make them, while GM has stopped producing the OEM LT4 manifold.
The Edelbrock LT4 intake has the 1/4" TALLER ports, but it will not work with the stock LT1 heads, because of an interference between the valve cover rail on the LT1 heads, and the taller runner castings on the LT4 intake.
QUOTE
Utilizing the proven short-runner tunnel-ram design for 1992-97 LTI and 1996 LT4 engines, these manifolds incorporate a .250" longer than-stock runner and out patented Air-Gap design that delivers a cooler, denser air stream for maximum power from 1500 to 6500 rpm. The throttle bore inlets are cast larger than stock to accommodate our 52mm throttle body #3809 or our 58mm throttle body #3810. The LT1 version, #7107, is designed for use on factory LT1 heads or Edelbrock Lt1 heads #61909. #7109 for the LT4 is machined with a .250" taller port designed for use on factory LT4 heads, Edelbrock LT1 heads #61909 and the new Edelbrock LT4 heads #61939.
QUOTE(Formyla @ Dec 24 2007, 05:11 PM)
Me - I enjoy burnnim off!
- me too!All great advice. One thing to be considered too - road condition and surface type can vary greatly and offer different levels of traction. At a track, a safe and consistant surface is paid for & expected, but you can never really trust a public road. Just beware all the time, especially when you are giving it a lot of pedal input 
.I don't have too much of a race car, so usually I just play around on the border of traction... and often well beyond, you know out there in the smoky air! Get you some traction, but learn your car and enjoy the process even if it means sometimes the tires make some noise.
Physics make sense about the EB intake being no better than stock, but that is not the norm from the company. Guess overall it is just a limited design. The LS serious really showed something fresh there, now EVERYBODY has curved composite intakes. Sorry to rant...
Actually, the Edelbrock LT1 parts have been disasters. They came out with their first LT1 intake manifold in 1995. I saw a prototype at the NHRA Nationals in Englishtown that year. As hard as they tried, they could never improve on the factory design, and hence never brought the intake manifold to market. They only added the "air gap" gimmick recently, and decided to sell it, AFTER GM stopped making the LT4 intakes.
The Edelbrock LT1 heads are extremely weak. They basically flow stock numbers, with stock intake cc's and stock valve sizes. Edelbrock advertises a 24HP gain. Their LT1 cam is good for 25HP. Stock LT1 heads with moderate porting, and a mild cam will easilly produce gains 2 to 3 times what the Edelbrock LT1 head/cam package claims to produce.
They appear to be doing a lot better with their LSx family of products, but most LT1 owners wrote off Edelbrock as a serious supplier many years ago.
The Edelbrock LT1 heads are extremely weak. They basically flow stock numbers, with stock intake cc's and stock valve sizes. Edelbrock advertises a 24HP gain. Their LT1 cam is good for 25HP. Stock LT1 heads with moderate porting, and a mild cam will easilly produce gains 2 to 3 times what the Edelbrock LT1 head/cam package claims to produce.
They appear to be doing a lot better with their LSx family of products, but most LT1 owners wrote off Edelbrock as a serious supplier many years ago.
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