i pruchased the 1le 32mm sway bar this weekend for my 94 formula. im just looking for some feedback on how effective this sway bar is as opposed to my stock one. im gonna replace the bushings with ones from the dealership. i also have bad shocks n struts which i am also looking to change but besides from that, how much more handling performance am i getting from this 32 mm sway bar with new bushings?

thank you

The 32 mm bar is what is on a WS6. It will obviously be better than your stock 30mm bar but some new performance shocks will have just as much impact on handling.

I have yet to install my Koni's Strano Springs and 35/22 Swaybar set.
Afterwards I look forward to taking 360* offramps at Ludricous speeds.

My 94 was one of only two documented factory 1LE cars made in 1994. You might say WTF? Well, me too, becuz according to most websites, exactly zero Firebirds were equipped with the 1LE suspension in 1994--this is not correct. I did order that particular suspension when the car was ordered, and never thought I got it, until, that is, I tried ordering parts, like new insulator bushings for the front and rear sway bars and they didn't fit!

OK, if you will accept that, this is exactly how my car was built and what I did to help the handling, calm it down a bit and how it worked. First, the front sway bars on the 1LE are hollow 32 mm. GM can supply you with both a high durometer rubber bushing and a graphite impregnated, cloth lined poly bushing that makes the ride somewhat harsher, but also makes it feel like it will corner on rails. for smooth roads use the GM poly bushings, rough roads use the rubber bushing. The bar is considered a "blue" code bar and the poly bushings are also considered a "blue" code, the rubber bushings are "pink" code. The endlinks are the normal "pink" code white poly.

On the rear, the 1LE sway bar or "blue" code is 21 mm with a "pink" code, graphite impregnated, cloth lined poly bushings. The end links are the "pink" code white poly--same as on the front.

The 1LE also came with specific springs, a-arm bushings, steering rack, high durometer rubber bushings on the rear LCAs and shocks. The car sat about 1/2 inch to 1 inch higher than the normal Firebird with the FE2 suspension and had a distinct rake in the front.

Problem with this was that the car was a bit of a rough ride and shocks were a real problem on rough roads, esp when they got old, my wife hated it. I found that KYB AGX adjustable shocks and struts tamed the harshness completely. Use setting number 1 on the front and setting #2 on the rear. This combination completely eliminated real wheel axle hop under hard acceleration even on rough roads. Before deciding on the KYB shocks, had tried Bilstein, Monroe and Koni. All three brands failed within about 5,000 miles or less

For alignment, use a negative 1/2 degree in the front, with stock caster and 1/32 front toe. Now this is the tricky part and is hard for most people to undertand...lower the front tire pressure to 28psi and the rear to 26 psi. Lowering the tire pressure increases the amt of rubber on the road, evens out tire wear, improves the ride and does wonders for the handling, becuz the tire now sits with even pressures across the tread surface.

When you get around to replacing the front a-arm bushings try using the "blue" code bushings all around, except for the rear, lower, horizontal a-arm bushing which should be the "pink" code, becuz it is more flexible and will last longer. Also, the blue code rear LCA bushings are wonderful in the stock LCAs.

GM tags each part of the FE2 and 1LE suspension with either a blue or pink dot of paint and they refer to this in the catalog. Use the "blue" code parts where you can.

Yeah, it will really help the handling!! I mention all these parts just for info, but you can pretty much mix and match what you want without hurting anything. For instance, the 1LE suspension on the 94 Camaro used a 19mm rear bar paired with the 32mm front bar. Your car should have the FE2 suspension and that means a stock 19mm rear bar, but check it...maybe it's the 21 mm bar.

I did the 1LE suspsension years ago when I did the lowering and cannot speak for just the sway bars as I did the entire suspension on my car as a system but I can speak about the 1LE sway bars on other peoples 4th gens as I have installed several sets of bars for friends.

They make a big difference in the roll of the car and it is a great upgrade from stock.

I know people that have taken a seconf off of thier track times at various autocrosses by doing this set up.

GM did a good job with that particular suspension but like anything it can be taken to a next level as thier are several other suspenions offered now that where not around even a few years ago.

it comes down to what you wnt to spend, what you want for your car , and personal feelings about ride noise and stifness.



Doug

Replaced my stock sway with the 32mm one and brand new bushings, not polyurethane, they are blue so idk what they are but they are by moog, and the cars handling performance is 10x better. it might alos have to do with the fact that i am now running 17x9 tires all around but it corners amazing. i need to buy struts all around now and im going to replace the rear bar for the 21mm one from GM.

Good for you!!! Don't forget, when the front struts are replaced, add 0.5 degree negative camber. If you think it corners well now, check out how it does with the negative camber. And NO, it won't wear the tires out funny, it will make them last longer by taking the strain off the outside edge.

The 21 mm bar with the GM poly bushings is icing on the cake and with negative camber on the front--go out there and take on a Corvette or two. Your 17X9 setup will really start to work for you with those changes.