Im to the point where I only have a few things to do before I start doing internal engine work...I've got exhaust, headers, a cutout, cai, roller rockers, all the little easier stuff...my next options for a decent gain in performance are gears and computer programing and chipping...

I was wondering how much it would be for new gears(3.73's) and where I'd buy the stuff from? is there any brands or anything that I should steer clear of or definately buy? I dont have any experience with rear ends at all so Im asking some of u guys who might know...also, what will it do to my gas mileage?

thanks again!

The first thing I'm going to say is since you don't have any experience with rear ends is to find someone who does. The rear end isn't something you want to mess with if you don't know what you're doing since being even slightly off with anything when doing the install can mean major problems for you and your car.

But several things first - do you know what gears are in the car now? 2.73s, 3.23s, etc? If it's 2.73s you're going to need not only the gears (ring/pinion) you're going to need a new carrier for 3 series (unless you want to pay the extra money for a 3 series gears that will work in a 2 series carrier), a new ABS reluctor ring so that your ABS still works and doesn't throw a code, a master install kit, gear oil and limited slip additive.

As for where to get everything, check places like Summit, Jegs, Thunger Racing, SpeedInc., etc. All of those places carry the parts you'd need.

But I'd find someone first who can do the work for you and who has experience dealing with our cars and see what they have to say about the different parts and how much it'll cost you to have everything installed correctly.

What are your goals for the car? Weekend warrior or a daily driver? A weekend warrior would be good with 3.73's, but a daily driver I would use 3.42's or even a 3.53. Ditto to what SassySue said.

Richmond gears I have heard are noisy, but a good, high quality gear. It all comes down to if you want a name brand or a bigger wallet. They all are good, or they would not be here.

Matt

I have no intent on doing the work myself, but like I said, I have no idea on how they work with what parts beyond a general understanding so I just want a ballpark range...I have 3.23 gears(just the stock ones) and I believe I've read before that you can replace the 3.23's with 3.73's without any major modifications or hastles...I'm basically looking to be better geared than a manual(3.42's) because the way it is I beat about 4 out of 5 of them anyway because human error is more likely than computer error...I just wanna definately beat them unless they have a lot of internal work, and I wanna run faster than the ram air ls1's without doing much internal work...Im getting close, if not already there, I havent taken her to the track this year...I basically just want a ballpark estimate on the price i should be paying for gears...hundreds? thousands?

To give you so idea I got my 3.73's off of ebay for $50. They were used and came out of an S10 truck. A guy in town put them in for me for $100. I've launched them very hard at the strip numerous times and they are still going strong. Plus there was no break in time since they were used.

Don't forget you will need a Programmer or a Tune to recalibrate your speedometer for the new gears. And you will only be slightly better geared then a manual car. Remember there is more power loss through an auto and you'll have more traction problems with the new gears.
And as far as outrunning LS1's good luck with that.

All I need is slightly better...I'm close now, I can beat a normal ls1 and almost always stay side by side with them...if I get some drag radials and some better gears, I doubt they're 25 stock horsepower advantage will win them the race-especially if Im already running with them.

All LS1's are the same WS6, SS, and Hawk's are no faster then a regular car.
In my experience the driver is everthing, On the street I have only been beat by 2 LT1's one Cammed and on Spray and one with a Blower. And the stock differnce is a little more then 25 HP.
LS1's usually put down 40+ more RWHP then an LT1 stock to stock. Not trying to rain on your parade just stating facts so you know what your up against.
On the street anything is possible I have seen strong running cammed LT1's that could run nose to nose with me but the driver wasn't up to the challenge.
Always remember in a drag race between to similar cars the more powerful car is NOT always the winner, Like I said before experience is everything.

Have Fun but be Safe

I have to agree with Craig, the driver makes all the difference really between an LT1 and an LS1 car. I've beaten several LS1 cars with my 97, some on the street and some at the track. Plus air density can make a difference to. To me it seems that when the air is "heavy" my LT1 runs better then my LS1 does (both before and after I modded it), also cooler air makes a difference too in how our cars run and who'd win the race.

yea, im sick and tired of people knocking the lt1 vs. an ls1...ls1's are better, but not by leaps and bounds...plus ls1's are too expensive for my taste!

I was gonna start a thread like this, but since this one is here, then...

BUMP!!

I have 2.73's, and also would like to upgrade to 3.73's.

I feel your pain!!

Yeap that whole rear end subject is kind of complex. FYour posi must match with your ring gear and pinion wheel, not to mention the appropriate clearance in the differential housing. I was actually in the market looking to get a new posi, since mine broke in the accident. They do not sell clutch spring replacement kits, so you have to actually buy a whole new posi, that really sucks. Anyways for $150 a got a used posi and 2.41 gears with pinion wheel too off a 94 Trans Am, way better than a new OEM for like $800. I just swapped ring gears. Aftermarket brands like Eaton or Auburn cost around $400-900, no gears included.

I guess for the GM gear ring, is the number that is stamped on the side the gear ratio. As far as I know, my car was kept stock, i referenced the VIN to the GM dealer and he told me that I had 3.23 but the number on my part is 3.42.

How do you know when you have installed the posi correctly? If from the outside you turn the axle or wheel, while the car is lifted of course, and it seems to rotate smoothly without any weird noise is it safe to say its good?