All right guys I need some help, again. First, how wide can I go in the back on 01 Trans am rims? And second, what can I put on to help keep reduce the amount of torque steer frm smashing it? BTW all my suspension is stock.

The biggest you can run with folding the lip of the fender and a mild adjustment to the inner fender with a mallet is a 315 (or 11") tire.

One thing you can do is have people watch the wheels and do a burnout. If one wheel stops spinning for a moment, lower the air pressure. I had this happen to me and have to run 2psi lower in the passenger tire.

You can also change the Lower Control Arms, Torque arm, panhard bar, shocks, and springs. These will all help.

Matt

I did all this (below) and eliminated all wheel hp under all road conditions and virtually eliminated torque steer. However, torque steer is hard to get rid of entirely, so don't count on it. My suspension was the 1LE option and much of this already came on my car. Equipped like this, there was no torque steer that I could feel.

On the rear:

Stock LCAs with Blue Code or 1LE bushings.
21 mm rear sway bar with Blue Code, 1LE insulator bushings and white poly bushings on the endlinks (controls body lean).
Installed a Hotchkiss panhard bar with Hotchkiss greasable poly bushings (this is important to keep the axle housing from wandering back and forth).
Installed KYB-AGX adjustable shocks set to setting #2

Bear in mind that the OEM LCA's are designed to flex somewhat--they have to, installing a boxed LCA can damage the suspension pick up points. It happened to me!

Other people have had really good luck with a ladder type torque arm going from the differential to the transmission rear mount.

You can mount 85 Mustang GT type horizontal shocks. This is a really easy thing to do. Use Koni shocks and weld or bolt on the pick up points--to the differentail axle tubes and the frame.

On the Front:

Use a 32 mm front bar with the Blue Code or 1LE insulator bushings and the white poly endlink bushings (the front swaybar is just as important to control the front as the rear is when trying to tame torque steer).

Install KYB-AGX adjustable struts and set to whatever setting you want, either 1 or 2--for that matter, set the shocks stiffer or softer as needed and to tame the torque steer depending upon hp of the engine.

Set the front tire alignment to a +4.5 degrees for caster and -0.5 degrees for camber, with about 1/32 to 1/16ths inch toe-in. you can try more camber on the front, but I wouldn't go over about -1.0 degrees as front tire wear becomes a problem and braking distances might get longer.

If your car still has torque steer under acceleration, then go to stronger swaybars front and rear--the aftermarket carries lots of different sizes. Bear in mind that the stiffer the sway bar then the stiffer the shock, which is why I recommend adjustable shocks, but the car will start to ride like a coal cart if you aren't careful.

If you continue to have torque steer after this then consider that there is something wrong within the differential and the torque biasing system (clutches) are defective.