Hi ,

I have bought a set AFR heads for my 1994 LT1 , and i am using the lt4 hotcam kit.
Is it wise to change my pushrods , the afr heads come with guideplates .
Does anybody know the lenght of the pusrods and what is a good brand ?

Thanks ,

Michel

You will need to use hardened pushrods with the guide plates. I'm not sure of the length but most cam companies should have something.

Read somewhere that the stock LT1 pushrods are hardened, you might want to check on that, though. If so, this would be a first for GM. However, the guide plates can be removed, and non-guideplate rocker arm bolts can be screwed in. Without guideplates, use self-guided roller rockers, and with guide plates, don't use the self guided roller rockers. I think Crane now makes the narrow body Gold Race roller rockers without the self guided tips. The non-self guided roller rockers are supposed to be quieter.

Hi ,

I have selfguided rockers ( lt4 hotcamkit )
Can i use the guideplates with the selfguided rockers or is this a bad idea ?
What is the purpose of these guideplates , is it also wise to place a rev kit or is this a waste of money ?
I must check this about the pushrods that they are hardened in my shopmanual , or in my book "how to rebuild a LT1 "

Thanks

There would be no need in using guide plates and self aligning rockerarms.

If the guide plates and the selft-guided roller rockers are used together, there will be a bind and failure of the pushrod. This goes for the stamped steel self-guided rocker arms as well.

There was no mention as to whether the pushrods are hardened in the shop manual. I caught this in the engine specs furnished with my car (a 1994 Formula) by GM--published by Road & Track.

If you intend to use the guideplates, then buy the Crane Gold Race aluminum, non-self guided narrow body, roller rocker arms. They are quieter anyway.

Ok thanks for the answers , i am gonna spent some more money i think.

Birdman,

I forgot to answer your question on the rev kit. I really recommend these. AFR makes them and have been selling them since about 1996 or 1997. What they do is control the action of the lifter body--the springs keep the lifter body on the cam and the valve springs act thru the hydraulic innards of the lifter. The two together allow the engine to rev almost forever.

By keeping the roller on the cam, they don't make hp, they keep the hp from falling off sharply at high rpms, and so the engine can be revved higher with more safety. You'll notice the difference immediately. The larger the cam, the more hp they "make". With a stock cam, they will ensure about 40 hp at 6,000 rpm and with something like the LT4 Hot Cam, the kit can save about 100 hp at 6,000 rpm and above. I also feel that they keep the valve springs from fatiguing--there is some evidence of this, but AFR doesn't claim it.

If I could figure out how to enclose a photo, I could show you my engine with the AFR Rev Kit installed. Not sure if the photo will show up...if it doesn't, maybe somebody could email me with the instructions.

Ok MeToo , thanks for explaining , it is good idea to buy this Rev kit.
Do you know how long standard pushrods are ?

Thanks

Nope, sorry...have no idea how long the pushrods are. Never bothered to measure mine. You might be able to find the info on the Internet.

Yup, I think the AFR Rev Kit is the single greatest improvement to any engine, stock or modified--don't leave home without it.

Ok thanks for the info , i will search the internet for the lenght.