i have a stock lt1 formula 95, if i put a 52mm throttle botdy, will i need any other modifications or will it increase hp with just the TB? i want to add as much hp to my car without doing too much stuff to the engine....mainly cuz i have low income flow.....im mainly lookin at a k n fipk intake system, throttle body, headers and an aftermarket exhaust

You dont need anything else. Dont expect a lot from that mod on it's own but with other stuff done to the car it will help more.

With a stock LT1, the engine will make more hp by leaving the throttle body stock. The 52 mm can actually cost the engine hp with a distinct loss of low end torque, becuz the PCM simply tunes it out. The K&N FIPK can help with increased airflow--generally the engine will make about 5-7 hp more. The stock air filter is pretty darn restrictive, but the intake plumbing is pretty darn good. It would cost less to just buy the replacement K&N air filter and the hp gain would be about the same. Whatever you do, leave the MAF alone!

Tubular headers are the best for making hp with a modified engine, but installing them is the biggest PITA there is. It costs less to have the stock manifolds Extrude Honed--an honest 10 hp for $300 (tested by GM and Extrude Honed manifolds were available on the first couple of hundred LT4s--the very best tubular headers make about 17 hp). They aren't sexy, you can't brag about them when the hood is opened, but Extrude Honed manifolds work great. An aftermarket exhaust, such as a Borla, represents the largest hp increase for the buck you can buy, anywhere from 10-15 hp. Also, plan on adding 1.6 ratio Crane Gold Race aluminum roller rockers for a guaranteed 15 hp increase.

Add all these together and for less than $1,300, the engine will gain around 50 hp without any tuning at all. For more punch have pcmforless.com program the PCM, raise the fuel cutout rpm to 6,500, then add an Air Flow Research Hydra Rev Kit--check it out on the Internet. It keeps the engine from losing about 40 hp (more with a high lift cam) at 6,000 rpm. It doesn't actually make hp, but it keeps the lifters from floating on the cam at higher rpms and this keeps the hp from falling off.

These simple mods will let the engine breathe and rev better. You will find that the engine will accelerate fiercely right up to the point where the intake passage flow rate starts to restrict breathing. Here's the really good deal about all this...all this stuff is bolt on, you can do it as the budget allows and in any order that you want. Also, few people bother, and fewer still have an engine that runs correctly. 325 honest hp doesn't sound like much, but the effect is...well, it will slaughter most cars where the guy has changed the throttle body, added the high zoot MAF and tubular headers, screwed up the airflow and doesn't know a thing about programming the PCM or lifter float on the cam. Want more hp? Have pcmforless program an OBDII PCM for you. The OBDII PCM will make about 10 more hp all by itself--it has 3 X the memory, 3 X the buss speed, it's a 32 bit processor instead of a 16 bit processor, plus 17,000 more lines of code

Figure zero to 60 in about 5-5.5 seconds and the 1/4 mile at around 106 to 108, depending upon whether your car has an auto or a manual transmission.

As debated many times I am in favor of the 52mm TB but only as one of the last things you do. When my car had a CAI and cat-back I put one on and felt a noticeable hp increase at the top end. It ran the same otherwise.

I gained a tenth with a modded MAF. I also lost a couple MPG. I tested this extensively and am satisfied with the results. The car still runs a modded MAF with no ill effects.

I agree completely that headers are good but a PITA to install. Never fooled with extruded stock manifolds but I cant see why they would not work ok. And plug changes would be easier with the stock manifolds to. I also have 1.6 RR's. Noticeable top-end increase.

PCM For Less did my PCM to. Seems to work fine and I would recommend them anytime over a hand held programmer. Cheaper to.

The Hydra-Rev seems like it would work good but it had terrible effects on my car. In all fairness,I had already installed LT4 springs which are a little stiffer than stock LT1 springs. My car ran 13.60's all day at that time and with the Hydra-Rev could only get about a 14 flat. If you go this route I would stay with the stock springs.

So far my car has G Teched a 4.9 0-60 and a 13.35 at 105 mph. I dont use that in my sig cause it's not a "drag strip" time slip. Thats one full second faster than it was stock.