Why is it that springs all seem to lower the car regardless of what kind of springs they are (short of stock).

The Firebird is already a low car, is there a spring that DOESNT lower the car an extra inch or so?

Ya know,I've always wondered this to. I would not mind a good set of springs but I dont really like my car lower. I hope someone knows something.

My car scrapes often enough as it is (usually exhaust tips thankfully).

Lowerin another inch would turn debris to a killer.

I am by no means an expert on this but my research has shown that there are no aftermarket springs that maintain the stock ride height. GM 1LE springs (std on `96-early `00 WS6's) are the only spring that is firmer and maintains the same height.

Stupid question: Where can I find GM 1LE springs in good condition to trade out my oem 94 firebird springs when I do the suspension work (at this rate that will be late this year and the engine reworking will be next year before the interior and repaint).

I figure if I save 2000$ I can get shocks redone, maybe 1000$ for springs?, bushings, then I can get other suspension items installed at the same time which I can probably buy up for another 2000$ or so. 6000$ for all parts bought and installations and maybe I wont scrape but will still hold road.

Generally if the springs aren't broken and don't have any cracks then their still good and can be reused (esp. if your happy with the ride height). I'm not sure what your trying to accomplish here but your cost estimates are well above what it would take to revamp your suspension. I did Springs Shocks and Swaybars 2 years ago and cost me $1500, $900 of that was just in the Koni Shocks. Doing the work yourself makes it easier aswell.
Depending on what your goals are the bushings, ball joints, tierods and shocks are the only items that should require replacement. If your goals are more spirited then Swaybars Lower control arms and a panhard rod may come into play. But don't underestimate the difference a quality set of dampers can make on the total ride and handling of these cars.
BTW 1LE springs were discontinued by GM in early 2000.

The springs seem to be working fine so they can stay, best way to keep my height.

I was looking at KYB AGX shocks.
I was looking at Sway Bars.
I was looking at Strut Tower Brace.
I was looking at Tubular Subconnector.
I was looking at K-Member. (Possibly but not the most likely)
I was looking at Watts Linkage.
I know I want good no-squeak bushings.
I would of course want good dampers, ball joints and the like.

Doing the work myself would be the challenge since my job gives me little chance to do any work and I have no garage let alone a house to base the work out of.

KYB shocks are fine esp. since your staying at stock height. Their only drawback is they adj. rebound and compression with a single knob.
For Swaybars I would reccomend a balanced set preferable 35mm front and 21-22mm rear. (stock is 30/19)
Heres the set I have http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php...6&ModelID=7
Shock tower braces and Subframe connectors are not suspension parts, they are chassis stiffening members and are not neccessary at this time. Same for the K member, IMO save your money and get what's important first.
Watts link is perfect and I myself will be getting one of these in the near future.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php...7&ModelID=7

As for doing the work yourself, do you have friends with tools. Another thing is look into a local F- body club where you may find people with experience and a willingness to help.

I have one friend with tools who could probably be bribed to help me with my car since he is in the construction industry and thats slow anyway. As to F-body club, I live in Santa Rosa CA and dont know too many groups out there and have had poor luck with such things.

I was looking at the 32 mm / 21 mm swaybars:

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/camarofi...nt21mmrear.aspx

But I will look at the link you provided.

Most of the stuff I was looking at was Hawks before seeing the performance page listed on here three years ago lol.

What would you suggest for lower control arms or trailing arms?

The 32/21 bars you've listed are good but the rear bar is bigger then you would want with that 32 front bar.
Like I said a balanced set is better, with that 32/21 combo the car will have a tendency to oversteer much easier.
Sam Strano is the F-body Guru when it comes to handling you'll find his site and any post by him to be very usefull.
He is regularly on http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/ in the suspension section. LS1 Tech is probably one of the best Tech sites out there right now, and has a lot of good info concerning modifying F-bodies.
Another good place for suspension components is http://www.umiperformance.com/
I have their Adj Panhard Bar and a Shock Tower Brace, Good quality parts at a decent price.

I was looking at the swaybars you listed and I think I prefer those far more than the hawks listed one. woo!

Best advice I can give you is do a lot of research before you purchase anything.
I was already dead set on purchasing the Koni shocks but was on the fence about doing Springs. What finally got me was that if I did it all at once it would be easier and cheaper. Because doing the front shocks requires the removal and seperation of the shock spring assembly. So why do it twice if down the road I decide I want springs. So I did it all at once. Strano Springs, Strano Swaybars and Koni S/A's (Single Adjustable) The result are nothing short of spectacular. The cars ride is firm like you would expect from a Performance car, without being harsh like a racecar. Handling is superb, predictable and confidence inspiring. The car maintains composure in virtually any situation, it's a night and day difference from the original suspension.

My plan is to try to keep likeminded upgrades all together but I worry about changing springs because of the lowering and I drive placed alot with potholes and speed bumps which as it is now challenge my suspension and undercarriage.

If I do this, I intend to get all the parts outright and then have the work all done at once to save hours if I do have to get a shop to do the actual work.

I am trying to do what research I can but the more I research the more I learn of other things and just as I set an idea to something I find better for just a little more. I would end up doing the suspension work and probably the stiffness upgrades together also at the same time.

Work all the 'Ride' areas together then I can start to focus once more on the engine then the brakes and by that it will be time for a paint job and interior work.

Dont suppose you know a great deal about the interior things and good places to look for that stuff also do ya?

I have always been a follower of the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) Philosophy.
It sounds like you have a solid plan and I applaude you for that, as too many people focus attention on Power mods over others first. I understand about the research thing fully but my point was the more you educate yourself on the subjects the better descision you can make when it's time to purchase.
As far as the interior I was never unhappy with the way the stock set up was. But I'm not sure what your looking for in that respect either. Maybe try posting questions in some of the other sections of this board. But also don't hesitate to join other messageboards and tap them for info and idea's. I myself am registered on at least 15 different boards.

mostly I want to restore the stock back to stockness. there are some cracks and suchlike from the previous owner but I think it would be easy enough to find parts or goodies to cover it.

I bought some low mileage WS6 shocks & springs off of ebay years ago. I added the sway bars to with stiffer bushings. Works for me.