im in the process of buying a lt1 from a 1994 buick stationwagon and i have a 1995 firebird... besides the detuned heads is it the same engine like should it bolt right into my bird? Thanks Luke

not sure dude i get the vin and call a dealer to decode it to see what it has exactly and even then match the vin with the engine to be on the safe side heres a little bit of literature too unless you getting really good then go for it but i'd stick to same kinds of birds for donor parts
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buick_Roadmaster#1991-1996

This is an interesting match. The cast iron heads actually flow a bit better than the aluminum LT1 heads, but the engine was derated by using a smaller cam and more restrictive tuning in the computer. The only problem that you would have installing it is the increased weight of the cast iron vs the aluminum heads. Let's not forget that unless the cam is changed back to your Firebird, there will be a loss of hp (about 15 to be exact). The best LT1 OEM cam is from the 94 and 95 Firebirds and Camaros. Fit the heads with 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms and there will be a 15+ hp gain over the stock LT1 in your bird. However, I think you would feel the extra weight from the iron heads in the handling dept, but it wouldn't be much. How about just doing a valve job on your aluminum heads and swapping them?

i just bought the engine last night for $500 with 48,000 miles.. whata deal.. anyway i blew my engine and there is metal in the oil do u think the metal would spread into my heads .. the guy doin the swap for me said i should get my heads cleaned .. should i? and right now ill prob break even with money right now. i was thinkin about p&p the aluminum heads and doin a roller rocker swap later on.. and i would switch the cam later.. i wish i had mo money haha.. im 18 with little money currently. so should i swap the heads

It is possible that some metal bits got trapped on the top of the heads. All you would have to do is clean them with some detergent or just wipe them down with a bunch of rags. Metal bits would be on the outside, couldn't get into the passageways. Just wipe down the area under the intake manifold and the area under the valve cover. It would be best if the heads got a valve job, and guides were measured and clearanced, and the heads dipped into whatever cleaner it is that machine shops use to clean aluminum heads. If you use a hose and detergent, make sure that everything is dried first, then coated again with clean oil...like the valve springs, valves, retainers, stems. WD-40 spray works properly for this. If you can find a can of compressed air (Radio Shack), it is the best for blowing into valve springs, etc., to get rid of any possible contamination. You do not want to remove the oil that is inside the guides, just any possible chance of stuff on the outside of the heads.

I would keep the aluminum heads. Once ported and polished, they would be superior, becuz they are light, to the cast iron heads.

The cast iron head motor also has less compression.

Does the cast iron head have less compression? Didn't know that, but it makes sense.

It would be easier to change the cam now, while the engine is out of the car. Changing a cam later is a real PITA. Chances are, the cam original to your car is not damaged. Roller cams are really tuff!

yeah i just got offered a zz4 cam and made a thread on the modification forum to see it it will work... the cast iron heads are way heavier compared to the aluminum but idk im just gonna keep em on there til i get the aluminum p&p then stick them back on the car...