So on the air intake side, I see my Formula peeps arent too thrilled with changing the stock throttle body to 52mm. How about the spacer? Recommendations?

The 52mm TB isn't so bad. Generally, the stock or near stock engine just tunes it out, but it can kill some low end torque. Whether or not it is worth the bucks is your choice. However, if you have substantial mods to the engine, it can actually help, by transferring some HP up on top while killing a bit down below where your tires are being fried by excessive torque (you gotta love that--"tires being fried by excessive torque!"). Lingenfelter does this with the most powerful of their engines--they have also used a 3.23 rear with a 6spd manual for more "balanced" performance. I have no idea if they remapped the air flow within the PCM, but they could have. The more logical add-on is the "air foil". This thing works about the same way as the 52 mm TB, it increases air flow and lowers rear wheel torque by just a few and raises upper end hp by a few--generally about 1-3 hp, although some have it as high as 5 hp. Basically, the stock TB flows 615 cfm and with the air foil it is 640 cfm. But remember, the OEM TB is larger than needed for even a modded engine. I used an air foil on a modded engine and couldn't tell the difference using the calibrated seat of the pants measurement method.

However, that TB spacer is a bunch of hooey. If you believe in buying American and want to give that company some of your hard earned mulah to keep the machinists emplyed then have it (it's probably made in China, though). It does make some pretty good wall art if the wall is the right color.

Interesting. You must mean JET Performance? They are the only name brand I can find that has them, but cant find one for my year. Ordered the SLP air foil, and SLP does not have any throttle body spacers. Interesting, I live and learn. SLP "claims" "up to" 7hp gain, and I believe the other I saw was Edelbrock at 5.8 hp, all on the MFG websites. But you are more than likely correct, 1-3.

When I actually get a job, gonna look into the the LT4 intake manifold. I always like to keep the original parts unchanged incase I need to go back to it for some reason.

The LT4 intake won't fit with the stock LT1 heads. However, the LT4 intake is a very slightly better design, but only in that the runner roof is raised about 1/10th of an inch to increase mixture speed and low end torque/engine response. Your engine would respond better by just port matching your existing intake with the LT1 heads. In fact, the LT1 heads can be ported and polished to easily match and excede the LT4 heads and intake. Both are basically the same part except that the LT4 heads are around 190 cc and the LT1 heads are 170 cc. That silly little 20 cc difference makes a huge change in flow rates. I beleive the stock LT1 heads will flow around 210 cfm at 28 inches and the stock LT4 heads flow 240 cfm at 28 inches, but they do so using larger valves which slow the mixture speed a bit (which is why the LT4 heads and intake used a revised runner angle to pick back up that speed). In short, unless you already own the LT4 parts, you are better off porting and polishing the LT1 equipment, then hold on to your hat, becuz your engine is gonna fly (worth of minimum of 30 hp and more with increased rpms and 1.6 rr's).

More than you wanted to know, but maybe it will help when it comes to modding that engine.

Any info is good to know, gotta save this one to a word document. No, have no LT4 parts. Does it increase exhaust noise porting the LT1 manifold? You know you are getting old when you ask that question lol. And thanks for all your info.

Amazing, something so simple...... I didnt notice till today, that the Holly air foil (not Edelbrock, my bad) simply "snaps" into place, the SLP has to be bolted on. Personally I am not a fan of anything that just "snaps" into place. Ordered the SLP, hope it was the better choice.

The SLP is probably the better choice, but you won't like what I'm about to tell you. In order to bolt in the air foil, it will be neccessary to remove the plastic cover on top of the TB. It is next to impossible to reseal that thing once it is removed. A new one will have to be bought. In this case, you should consider biting the bullet and buy a quality alloy one with a paper gasket.

So I was at the beach reading this, was researchin (phones stink on the internet), so I gave up on the internet and just called SLP (they are like 1 hour away from me, I should just go pick the thing up, still havent shipped it yet - not a complaint by the way). The tech didnt seem too concerned about the gasket, he said just use silicone to seal it. Idk. If that works, then great. Will see what my garage buddy wants to do.

Thanks for the heads up.

Holy Cow! The tech doesn't have any idea what he is talking about. He said "use silicone" to seal it. So, by that, just run down to the ol' parts depot and pick up some RTV? That would be a huge mistake. RTV contains silicones and silicones are death to O2 sensors. The Silicones within the RTV are boiled out by the heat, pass thru the combustion chamber intact and make a beeline to foul the sensors. Silicones should never be used for any reason on an O2 sensor equipped engine.

See, ya can't trust those people.

Ok, u sold me. Saw some nice "100% billet 6061 aluminum machined to perfection, then anodized" LT1 cover plates + a gasket on ebay for $20.00. Want one in red to match the paint. Lets see if I can find one in red.

So tell me, the GM gasket is basically a solid piece. The anodized plates have a gasket that simply surrounds the edges to make the seal. Your thoughts? Should the anodized plate use the solid rubber gasket instead? Then I will make the purchase.

I had the most success with a paper gasket. It's not that the GM gasket is bad, it's that the plastic GM cover is damaged as soon as the screws are tightened. The screws locally bend the plastic and that compresses the gasket. Once removed, the cover will never seal again, and the gasket is ruined. The new cover should be torqued down with like maybe one pound of torque--or better yet, 5-6 inch pounds and just enough for a seal. Locktite should be used on the screws.

I was in error about the RTV. You can use what is called "Sensor safe" RTV--that means it has zero silicones. All intake manifold gasket sets for the LT1 use an RTV end rail and that stuff is made without silicones.

The aluminum plates look better anyway.

Oooooooo.... ahhhhhhh..... will play it safe, new 100% billet 6061 aluminum-inum-inum on its way. Cool.

Yeah, that looks way better than the black plastic one.